A Short History of Johor Bahru: From Tanjung Puteri to a Modern City

2026-07-12 · 5 min read

Istana Besar (the Grand Palace) in Johor Bahru, built in 1866

Photo: Irwan Shah Bin Abdullah, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Johor Bahru began as a settlement called Tanjung Puteri and was renamed Johor Bahru in 1866, when Sultan Abu Bakar — the “Father of Modern Johor” — made it his new capital.

Most visitors know JB for its malls, food streets and the Causeway to Singapore. But the city has a real story behind it, and a few 19th-century buildings from that story are still standing a short drive from KSL City Mall. Here’s the short, accurate version.

How did Johor Bahru get its name?

In the mid-1800s the site was a modest riverside settlement known as Tanjung Puteri. It grew under Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim, the Johor administrator who developed the area from the 1850s and encouraged Chinese and other migrants to plant pepper and gambier. After his death in 1862, his son took over — and in 1866 moved the state’s administrative headquarters here and renamed it Johor Bahru, which means “New Johor” in Malay. That 1866 move is the moment the modern city really begins.

Aerial view of the Old Quarter of Johor Bahru with the Straits of Johor in the distance
The old quarter today, seen from above, with the Straits of Johor beyond: the site where Tanjung Puteri once grew. Photo: Slleong, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Who was Sultan Abu Bakar?

Abu Bakar (born 1833, died 1895) succeeded his father as ruler in 1862, took the title Maharaja in 1868, and was formally recognised as Sultan of Johor in 1886. He is widely called the “Father of Modern Johor” because he built the machinery of a modern state — a European-style administration, government departments, schools and infrastructure — and Johor became known for orderly, forward-looking governance. His reign is why so much of JB’s civic identity traces back to the late 19th century.

Which historic landmarks can you still visit?

Two survive prominently. The Istana Besar (Grand Palace) 📍 Map was completed in 1866 and commissioned by Abu Bakar; part of it now houses the Royal Abu Bakar Museum, set in gardens overlooking the Straits of Johor. Nearby, the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque 📍 Map was built between 1892 and 1900 — Abu Bakar died in 1895, before it was finished — and blends Victorian, Moorish and Malay design. (Both are working sites: check current opening hours and dress-code rules before you go.)

The entrance gate of the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque in Johor Bahru
The gate of the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque, which was built between 1892 and 1900. Photo: Chongkian, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

What about the grand government building on the hill?

The tall, castle-like Sultan Ibrahim Building on Bukit Timbalan 📍 Map came later — completed around 1940, under Abu Bakar’s successor — and served for decades as Johor’s state secretariat. It’s a striking landmark on the city skyline and a good reference point when you’re getting your bearings downtown. From there, JB kept growing into the border city of today: retail, industry, and the daily flow of people across the Causeway.

Quick facts

  • Old name: Tanjung Puteri, developed from the 1850s.
  • Turning point: 1866, when the administrative seat moved here and the town became Johor Bahru.
  • Sultan Abu Bakar: lived 1833 to 1895 and was recognised as Sultan in 1886.
  • Still standing: Istana Besar (1866), the State Mosque (1892 to 1900) and the Sultan Ibrahim Building (about 1940).

Which other old buildings tell the JB story?

The palace and the mosque get the headlines, but the Johor Bahru Old Chinese Temple is the one that shows how ordinary residents lived. It dates to the 1870s and is associated with Tan Hiok Nee, a Chinese community leader who worked with the Johor court, and it houses deities linked to the city's main Chinese dialect groups. Accounts say Sultan Abu Bakar encouraged Chinese communities to build places of worship by providing land, which fits the story of a town that grew through pepper, gambier and migrant trade. Then there is the Dato' Jaafar Building at Bukit Senyum, built in the 1890s as the residence of Johor's first chief minister, Dato' Jaafar Muhammad, and now used as a museum.

What is the best way to walk through this history?

Local tip: start at the Old Chinese Temple in the morning, wander the heritage lanes, and save the hilltop buildings for the softer afternoon light. If you like museums, our museums in Johor Bahru guide lines up the indoor stops, and the old shophouse streets are covered in the JB Chinatown walking guide.

These sights sit close together in the old city core, and they pair well with a food-and-shopping weekend — see our guide to things to do in Johor Bahru and how to get around JB without a car. When you visit, stay in the middle of it all at KSL D’Esplanade: see our Studio and 2-bedroom units, then message us on WhatsApp to book direct.

Planning a JB stay? Book direct with Southern Homestay — studio and 2-bedroom serviced condos at KSL D'Esplanade in JB city centre. WhatsApp us for tonight's rate →

Frequently asked questions

When was Johor Bahru founded and renamed?

The settlement of Tanjung Puteri grew from the 1850s under Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim. In 1866 his son, Sultan Abu Bakar, moved the state's administrative capital here and renamed it Johor Bahru, which means "New Johor" in Malay.

Why is Sultan Abu Bakar called the "Father of Modern Johor"?

Abu Bakar (1833–1895) built a European-style administration with government departments, schools and infrastructure, and was formally recognised as Sultan of Johor in 1886. Historians credit much of Johor's 19th-century modernisation to his leadership, hence the title.

Which historic Johor Bahru landmarks can I still visit?

The Istana Besar (completed 1866), which houses the Royal Abu Bakar Museum, and the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque (built 1892–1900) are both near the old city core. The 1940-era Sultan Ibrahim Building on Bukit Timbalan is another landmark. Check current opening hours before visiting.

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